Blinds installation looks simple until you try it. The blinds arrive a little too wide for the recess, the screws will not hold in the wall, or the headrail hits the window handle. Most of these problems start before the first hole is drilled: with the measurement, the type of blind and the wall it is going on.
This guide is for homeowners and renters in the United States and the United Kingdom. It covers the main types of blinds and shutters, inside and outside mounting, measuring, wall and frame types, cord safety for children, motorised blinds, what sets the cost, and how to choose an installer. Where the two countries differ, there are separate notes.
Types of blinds and what each one needs
Different blinds need different fixings, depths and clearances. Knowing which type you want makes the quote faster and more accurate.
| Type | How it works | What to check before fitting |
|---|---|---|
| Roller and day-and-night blinds | A fabric roll; day-and-night blinds use alternating sheer and solid stripes. | Recess depth for the roll, clearance for handles, side light gaps. |
| Venetian blinds | Horizontal slats that tilt and lift. | Weight on the brackets, slat clearance from the glass and handles. |
| Vertical blinds | Vertical slats on a track, often for wide windows and patio doors. | A level, solid fixing above the opening; floor clearance. |
| Pleated blinds | Folded fabric that stacks tightly; often fitted to the frame. | Frame or bead depth, clip or bracket type, odd shapes. |
| External roller shutters | A box and slats fitted outside the window. | Wall fixings, weather sealing, access at height, any motor wiring. |
| Awnings | Fabric on an arm system fitted to an outside wall. | A strong wall to fix into, wind exposure, working height. |
Heavy curtains are a separate job but often come up at the same visit. A long curtain track or pole carrying heavy fabric needs fixings that suit its weight, and sometimes a centre bracket so it does not sag over time.
Inside or outside mount, and why measuring matters
The first decision in any blinds installation is where the blind sits.
- Inside mount: the blind sits within the window recess. It looks neat and leaves the wall clear, but the recess must be deep enough for the headrail and roughly square. Small gaps at the sides are normal and let some light in.
- Outside mount: the blind is fixed to the wall or frame above the window and overlaps the opening. It blocks more light at the edges, hides an uneven recess and can make a small window look larger.
Window handles, tiled sills, shallow recesses, radiators and old plaster often decide it. A good installer looks at the window, explains which mount suits it, and then measures.
Who should measure
Measuring is where most mistakes happen, and a wrong measurement on a made-to-measure blind usually cannot be fixed. Recesses are rarely perfectly square, so a careful measurement checks the width and drop at several points and allows for the headrail, the fabric roll and any handles. If you buy made-to-measure blinds, it is usually safer to let the installer measure and to agree in writing who is responsible if the blind does not fit. If you measure yourself, say so in your job post, so the installer knows the risk is yours.
Wall, ceiling and frame: what the blinds are fixed to
The surface behind the bracket matters as much as the blind. The fixing has to match it.
- Concrete, brick or block: strong, but needs the right drill bit and wall plugs. Old brickwork can crumble near the edge of a recess.
- Plasterboard or drywall: weak on its own. Light blinds can use cavity fixings; heavier blinds and long tracks need fixings into a stud, a timber batten or the lintel above.
- PVC or uPVC window frames: many systems clip onto the frame or glazing bead with no drilling, which suits rented homes and protects frame warranties. Drilling a frame is a separate decision you should agree in advance.
- Ceilings: top-fixed blinds and curtain tracks need a solid fixing point, not just plaster.
Ask the installer what they will fix into at each window and whether they expect any hidden cables or pipes near the drilling points. A careful installer checks before drilling.
Cord safety: blinds in a home with children
Loose cords and chains on blinds and curtains are a strangulation risk for babies and young children. It can happen quickly and silently. This is the one part of a blinds installation you should never treat as optional.
- Choose cordless blinds, or blinds where the cords cannot be reached, especially in bedrooms and playrooms.
- If a blind has a cord or chain, have it fixed high and out of reach with a safety device, never left hanging.
- Keep cots, beds, sofas and anything a child can climb away from windows.
US: since 2018, most stock blinds sold have to be cordless or have cords that cannot be reached. Custom blinds may still offer corded options, so ask for a cordless or inaccessible-cord version.
UK: blinds sold in the UK and EU must have child-safety devices built in. Older blinds fitted before these rules may not, so ask the installer to check existing blinds while they are there.
Before the installer arrives: clear the sills and the area in front of each window, move furniture back, take down any old blinds you do not want refitted, and tell the installer about cracked plaster, loose frames, tiles near the recess or anything fragile.
Posting a job on Hirovo is free. Say how many windows you have, which type of blind you want, inside or outside mount, whether you already have the blinds, and what the walls are made of. Add photos of the windows if you can. Installers nearby can apply or message you in the app. You compare them and decide.
Post a free job →Motorised blinds and shutters
Motorised blinds and roller shutters can be battery powered, plug-in or wired into the home’s electrics. Battery and plug-in systems are usually part of the blind installer’s job. Hard-wired motors, new sockets or switches are electrical work and should be done by a qualified electrician. Rules on who may carry out electrical work in homes differ between US states and the UK, so check locally if you are unsure.
Ask how the motor is controlled, how batteries are charged or replaced, what happens in a power cut, and who to call if the motor fails. Keep the manuals and the remote pairing details.
Blinds installation cost: what sets the price
A figure you find online cannot price your home. These are the items that move the number:
- Number and size of windows: a single small window and a wide patio door are not the same job.
- Type of blind and fabric: made-to-measure blinds, blackout or thermal fabric and wooden slats cost more than standard sizes.
- Motorisation: motors, controls and any electrical work add cost and time.
- Outside products: roller shutters and awnings need stronger fixings, weather sealing and often more people.
- Height and access: upper floors, stairwells, high windows or scaffolding needs.
- Wall type: difficult walls, plasterboard that needs extra support, or tiles near the recess.
- Removal: taking down and disposing of old blinds, rails or shutters, and filling old holes.
- Product and fitting together or separate: some installers supply and fit; others only fit blinds you have bought.
Ask two or three installers for a written quote for the same windows, the same products and the same extras. Then compare them line by line, not just the total.
How to choose an installer, from visit to finished job
A clear process protects both sides.
- Survey: the installer looks at each window, recommends inside or outside mount and measures.
- Written quote: it should list each window, the product and fabric, the mount, fixings, any removal, motor and electrical work, and who is responsible if a blind does not fit.
- Fitting: agree the date, how long it will take and whether you need to be at home.
- Check: before they leave, test every blind, lift and lower it, check it is level, and see that cords are secured.
- Paperwork: keep the invoice and any product guarantee, and ask what the installer guarantees on their own work.
Questions to ask an installer
- Will you measure, and who pays if a made-to-measure blind does not fit?
- What will you fix into at each window?
- Will you drill my window frames, or use a no-drill system?
- Are these blinds cordless, or how will cords be secured?
- Is the price for fitting only, or for blinds and fitting?
- Can I see proof of your liability insurance?
- If there is a motor, who does the electrical work?
Using a free Hirovo job post
Posting a job on Hirovo is free. Describe your windows, the blinds you want and your area, and installers nearby can apply or message you. Hirovo is a global platform and the number of blind installers registered in the US and UK is still small, so replies may be slow or may not come, and it is best used alongside other ways of finding local services. Hirovo does not verify identity, insurance or reviews and is not a party to the work, so run the checks above on anyone who responds.
In short
Good blinds installation starts with the right mount and an accurate measurement, then a fixing that suits the wall or frame. Choose cordless or secured cords in any home with children, and leave hard-wired motors to a qualified electrician. The cost depends on windows, products, motors, outside work, access and removal, so compare written quotes that list all of it.
