How much does hardwood floor refinishing cost?

There is no fair average for your home, because the price depends on the job. The main factors are the floor area, the condition of the boards, repairs or board replacement, stairs, whether you want a new stain colour, the type of finish, the number of coats and whether furniture has to be moved. A screen and recoat usually costs less than a full sand, because it involves fewer steps. Ask two or three pros for a written quote that covers the same rooms, the same option and the same number of coats, then compare them line by line.

How do I know if my floor needs a full sand or just a recoat?

Look at where the wear stops. If the finish is dull or lightly scuffed but still covers the wood everywhere, a screen and recoat may be enough. If you see deep scratches, dents, grey or black patches, water marks, or areas where the finish has worn through to bare wood, a recoat will not fix them and a full sand is the usual answer. A colour change also needs a full sand. A pro should check the floor in person, and also whether the existing finish will accept a new coat.

How long before I can walk on the floor and put furniture back?

It depends on the finish, the number of coats, the temperature and the ventilation, so ask the pro for the times in writing rather than relying on a general rule. Water-based finishes usually dry faster between coats than oil-based ones, and oil-based finishes need a longer cure. A floor can be dry enough to walk on in socks well before it is fully cured. Put furniture back and lay rugs only after the cure time the pro specifies, and use felt pads under furniture legs.

Can engineered hardwood be refinished?

Sometimes. Engineered hardwood has a top layer of real wood, called the wear layer, on a base of plywood or similar material. It can be sanded only if that wear layer is thick enough, and some engineered floors can only be sanded once or not at all. If the wear layer is thin, a screen and recoat may still be possible when the finish is worn but the wood is undamaged. Ask the pro to check the wear layer, for example at a floor vent or a threshold, before quoting.

Can I stay at home while the floors are being refinished?

That depends on the size of the job, the layout of your home and the finish. Sanding is noisy and dusty, and you cannot walk on the floor while coats are drying. Oil-based finishes also have a stronger odour. Many households plan to stay elsewhere for part of the job, or work room by room. Pets and children should be kept out of the work area. Ask the pro for a day-by-day plan and for advice on ventilation and when it is safe to come back.

Does Hirovo check the flooring pros who reply?

No. Hirovo is a small platform in the US and UK and the number of flooring pros registered there is still limited. Posting a job is free. Pros nearby can apply or message you, and in some areas replies may take time or may not come at all. Hirovo does not verify identity, licences, insurance or previous work, and it does not confirm reviews. It is not an employer, agent or party to the work. You choose whom to invite and agree the price directly, so run the checks in this guide on anyone who responds.

Hardwood Floor Refinishing: Sand or Screen, How to Hire a Flooring Pro and What Sets the Cost

Hardwood floor refinishing can make a tired, scratched floor look close to new, but the job varies more than most people expect. Some floors need a full sand down to bare wood. Others only need a light buff and a fresh topcoat. And some floors that look like wood cannot be sanded at all. Quotes differ for the same reasons.

This guide is for homeowners and renters in the United States and the United Kingdom. It covers the two main options, how to tell what floor you have, finishes and cure times, dust and ventilation, how to hire a flooring pro on each side of the Atlantic, what sets the cost, and how the job usually runs from the first visit to the warranty.

Hardwood floor refinishing: sand and refinish, or screen and recoat

There are two main routes, and the right one depends on how deep the wear goes. A good flooring pro looks at the floor before recommending either.

A pro should confirm the right option after seeing the floor in person.
Job	What it involves	When it fits	What changes the time and price
Full sand and refinish	The old finish and a thin layer of wood are sanded off to bare wood, then an optional stain and several coats of finish.	Deep scratches, dents, grey or water-marked areas, finish worn through, or a new stain colour.	Floor area, condition, sanding passes, stain, number of coats.
Screen and recoat	The existing finish is buffed to roughen it, cleaned, and a new topcoat is applied. No bare wood.	Finish is dull or lightly scuffed, but has not worn through and the wood is undamaged.	Floor area, whether the old finish accepts a new coat, number of coats.
Repairs and board replacement	Damaged, loose or stained boards are cut out and replaced, gaps filled, raised nails set.	Pet stains, water damage, squeaks, missing or split boards.	Number of boards, matching the species and width, access.
Stairs and edges	Treads, risers and nosings worked largely by hand; edges and corners done with smaller machines.	Usually part of a whole-floor job.	Number of steps, spindles and detail work.

A screen and recoat is quicker and involves less work, but it cannot fix damage that goes into the wood. If you can see bare or grey wood where the finish has worn through, a new topcoat will not hide it. The pro should also check whether the old finish will bond with a new coat. Floors that have been treated with some polishes or waxes may not accept one without a full sand.

DIY refinishing kits and rental sanders exist. A light recoat can be manageable for a careful DIYer, but a full sand is far less forgiving. A heavy sander held in one place can gouge the boards, and on engineered wood it can cut through the wear layer. If you are unsure, have a pro assess the floor first.

Know what floor you have before you call

Tell the pro what floor you have, or ask them to identify it on the first visit. It decides whether sanding is possible at all.

Solid hardwood: one piece of wood all the way through. It can usually be sanded several times over its life, though each full sand removes some wood.
Engineered hardwood: a top layer of real wood, the wear layer, on a plywood or similar base. It can be sanded only if the wear layer is thick enough. A pro can often check it at a floor vent, a threshold or the edge of a board.
Laminate and vinyl: a printed surface, not real wood. They cannot be sanded or refinished. Worn areas are fixed by replacing planks.

If the floor has already been sanded before, say so. Visible nail heads or exposed board edges can be a sign that little wood is left, and a pro may suggest a recoat or repairs instead.

Choosing a finish

The finish is the protective layer on top. Each type looks and behaves differently, so ask to see examples.

Water-based polyurethane: low odour, dries faster between coats, and stays close to the natural colour of the wood.
Oil-based polyurethane: gives a warmer, amber tone, has a stronger odour and needs a longer cure.
Hardwax oil: soaks into the wood for a more natural, matte look. Worn spots can often be touched up, but it may need more regular care.

Drying and curing are not the same thing. A floor can be dry enough to walk on in socks long before it is fully cured. Put furniture back and lay rugs only after the cure time the pro specifies, and follow the finish manufacturer’s guidance on cleaning products. Ask for the times in writing so everyone in the house knows them.

Stain and colour changes

A stain changes the colour of the wood before the finish goes on. Going lighter or darker means a full sand to bare wood; a recoat cannot do it. Ask for a test patch on your own floor, because the same stain looks different on different woods.

Dust, pets and ventilation

Sanding creates fine dust. Ask whether the pro uses a dust-containment sanding system, where the sanders are connected to a vacuum that captures most of the dust at the source. Even then, plan for some dust.

Keep pets and children out of the work area, and ideally out of the house during sanding and finishing.
Turn the heating and air conditioning off during finishing, so dust and fumes are not pulled through the house and onto the wet floor.
Ask the pro to seal doorways to rooms that are not being worked on.
Ask about ventilation and when it is safe to come back, especially with oil-based finishes.

Plan where you will stay: with a full sand and several coats, you may not be able to use the rooms, or even parts of the house, for some days. Ask for a day-by-day plan before you book, including when each coat goes on and when the floor will be ready for furniture.

Floors need sanding or a fresh coat?

Posting a job on Hirovo is free. Describe the rooms and the floor, add photos of the worn areas, choose your area, and flooring pros nearby can apply or message you in the app. You compare them and decide.

Post a free job →

How to hire a flooring pro

Get two or three written quotes, ideally after a visit. A pro who quotes without seeing the floor cannot know its type, its condition or how much repair it needs.

In the United States

Licensing rules for flooring contractors vary by state, and sometimes by city or county. Check with your state or local licensing office what applies where you live. Whatever the rules, ask for proof of insurance before work starts. Ask for a written estimate per square foot that lists the steps: sanding passes, repairs, stain and the number of coats. That lets you compare quotes like for like.

In the United Kingdom

Ask for a written quote, not a verbal price, listing the rooms, the preparation, the finish and the number of coats. Ask whether the business has public liability insurance, in case furniture, skirting or the property is damaged. If you rent or live in a flat, check with your landlord or building management before booking.

In both countries

Photos of previous work, ideally on floors like yours.
A written warranty, and what it covers and for how long.
Who will actually do the work, and whether they will be on site every day.
When payment is due, and what happens if the schedule slips.

Hardwood floor refinishing cost: what sets the price

A figure from someone else’s home cannot price yours. These are the items that move the number:

Floor area: square footage in the US; in the UK the quote may be by area or as one price for the job.
Floor condition: deep damage means more sanding passes.
Repairs and board replacement: especially where boards must be matched.
Stairs: slow, detailed work, usually priced separately.
Stain colour change: an extra step, and it needs a full sand.
Finish type and number of coats: more coats mean more time.
Moving furniture: whether it is included, and which pieces they will not move.

When you compare, check that each quote covers the same rooms, the same option, the same finish and the same number of coats. A low quote that leaves out repairs or counts fewer coats is not really cheaper. Then look at the job posts and local pros around you to see who is available.

How the job usually runs

Visit: the pro identifies the floor, checks its condition and discusses options and finishes.
Written quote: rooms, steps, finish, coats, timing and warranty.
Preparation: furniture moved, rugs lifted, doorways sealed.
Sanding and repairs: boards replaced, gaps filled, floor sanded or screened.
Stain and coats: applied with drying time between each coat.
Cure and handover: a walk-through, a written invoice and the warranty.

If you are also repainting walls or skirting, agree the order with both trades so new paint is not scuffed by sanders and drips do not land on a fresh finish. Our guide on how to hire a painter covers that side of the work.

Questions to ask a flooring pro

Is my floor solid, engineered, or something else?
Do I need a full sand, or will a screen and recoat do?
Which finish do you recommend, and what are the drying and cure times?
Do you use a dust-containment system?
Can I have a written quote listing every step and coat?
Can I see proof of insurance and photos of previous work?
What does your warranty cover?

Using a free Hirovo job post

Posting a job on Hirovo is free. Describe the floor, the rooms and any stairs, add photos, choose your area, and flooring pros nearby can apply or message you. Hirovo is a global platform and the number of pros registered in the US and UK is still small, so use it alongside other ways of finding local tradespeople. Hirovo does not verify the people who reply and is not a party to the work, so run the checks above on anyone who responds.

In short

Find out what floor you have before anything else. Choose a full sand for real damage or a colour change, and a screen and recoat for a worn but intact finish. Pick the finish for the look and the cure time you can live with. Ask about dust containment, keep pets and children out, and turn off heating and air conditioning during finishing. Get written quotes, check insurance and, in the US, your state’s licensing rules, and get the warranty in writing.